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My workstation.
Check Meowt!
[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/3835f791256abb9e133c17dfdb6a37e5.jpg[/IMG]
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[quote=”cap269″ post=140477]No, they are different. The cooling system pressure test has an adapter that fits on the radiator where the cap goes, then there is a hand pump that you pump the pressure up in the system. The leakdown test is an expanded form of the compression test and connects to the spark plug ports and uses compressed air from a compressor.[/quote]
Awesome.
I leave the plugs in or out for this test?
I think I have a good eye by realizing that the water should have died out by now. It can’t be fuel, since fuel is totally disconnected..
[quote=”cap269″ post=140474]If the manifold gasket is actually leaking, then you just have to remove the rest of the manifold to change the gasket (well, both, since it is a V engine). A cooling system pressure test will tell the story. Pressurize the cooling system with the tester, then crank the engine. If the pressure drops when the intake valve opens, the gasket is leaking. If more than one cylinder is leaking, it may not be able to fully pressurize, but if that is so, then water will eventually begin to run out of the cylinders when trying to pressurize the system.[/quote]
Isn’t that the same as a Cylinder Leakdown Test, you are just calling it something different? (*sorry, I’m just asking because I am unclear.)
[quote=”cap269″ post=140469]I’m with notorious on the cooling system pressure test. There shouldn’t be that much water left in that cylinder by now. It’s coming from inside somewhere. Perhaps the lower manifold gasket is leaking allowing water to enter through the intake valve.[/quote]
Do you agree that in the engine’s present state of disassembly that I am in the perfect position to deal with it?
[quote=”notoriousDUG” post=140464]OK, I’m new and confused by all this…
Did you have a mechanic replace the spider and then have a fire?
[/quote]Yes. And I am annoyed and saddened that $90 just went up in flames. I am not liking this scenario.
Does the liquid that comes out smell like gas? Based on the volume of liquid I very much doubt it is gas.
It could be water. I know just plain water was in there. SO if its water.. its a Head Gasket leak there.. right?
*I also put a LOT of water on that fire so if I try that “2” more times and liquid comes out, with no way for fuel to get in there.. it’s water.
Why have you not done a compression test or cooling system pressure test?
Because my old compression tester mysteriously disappeared and I have not been able to replace.
Only reason.
I did this a 5th time.. Blazer. (1994 S-10 4.3 VIN W.) I kind of think the liquid coming out is gasoline, since it doesn’t stay where it is for very long. It is either that or water. What do you think?
4th/last time on that crankin.
[quote=”cap269″ post=140437][quote=”GearheadTool” post=140432]3rd time[/quote]
At this point, I wouldn’t worry about drying it out any more. As long as more water isn’t getting in, there isn’t enough in there to lock up the engine, so as soon as you are able to start the engine the combustion will dry it out super fast. I’d be more worried about decreasing the life of the battery and starter with all the repeated cranking.[/quote]
I did a 4th time and the video is uploading. My battery appears strong and is getting a nice, long, slow, automatic 2A charge; It has been “cycled” once so it will be as strong as it can be.
Sucks about that injector.
If I could I would bolt on 1996 heads and change it to TBI, with this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3713/ – which costs as much as a NEW unit. I have to chance it on reman….
[quote=”Evil-i” post=140416]About the starter slowing down, that’s probably due to the battery becoming depleted with all that cranking. Also, starters will get hot and slow down when they are cranked for long periods.
Is that raw fuel being pumped out of the plug holes? Not a wonderful thing. Gas is a solvent, and it’s diluting the oil on your cylinder walls, accelerating engine wear.
If that’s water, it points to head gasket failure and coolant is being sucked into the cylinders during the intake stroke. Unless, of course, the water is in there because of that engine fire you mentioned earlier. I imagine you might have used a garden hose to solve that particular emergency.[/quote]
Stuff (water) is still coming out passenger side holes.The worst part: I *may* have to get a new FPR… I spent $90 on it and HALF the lines are now BURNED THROUGH. (I really have no idea why mechanic wanted to do that. I should make him get another.) So either I re-use 3 of the 6 lines from old spider (!) Or.. I cant BELIEVE the NEW spider I bought was in there.
Imagine if that was a NEW spider.
CAN my old Spider donate 3 lines?
Pic:
[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/b2cbf800925c5210dec0e8bdc13d6cf3.jpg[/IMG]
Vid.. 3rd time:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEPjIY48BGw
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[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=140359][quote=”GearheadTool” post=140357]You mean consumption-wise yes?
I could just have an oil burner..[/quote] Naturally, the older an engine gets, the more worn down it is. This means valve seals and rings no longer hold their seal as well. This means blowby as well as leaky seals. Oil will also get burned, because the rings can’t manage it as well any longer.[/quote]
My uncle used to have a K5 Jimmy. Why do I want to say 1975 model…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmB4WNB8xjw
*for that “weird stuff” I mentioned: I was referring to the “misting” you could see in the first two cranks.
Now is it just me, or does that starter start to slow down kinda fast. Or is that normal. ?
And I’m STILL not 100% on how it could have been “partially hydrolocked.” the “5 cylinders” comment makes sense.. it probably was…
Bayonne NJ here. 🙂
I used to take long drive every week there in college.
Welcome! 😀
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So far today…
1. I found the “bolt in the middle.” Thankfully, Honda was kind enough to put a hole where the bolt is. My 12″ extension gets to it, and I remember that it is 12mm. Today, I bought a flex joint to get my ratchet to turn the socket on the extension when I get it on there. And I should be just about home on this head job by then…
2. The Honda Heater Core is flushed, and flowing. It was really gunky.
3. (On the Blazer, I turned the engine with no plugs in and the video will give me a rough glance at what came out.)
Video ensues.
Part 1: (*Heads up: This got hella messy. But at 100+ today.. It was manageable.)
HONDA HEATER CORE IS FLUSHED – PART 1 – YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YscQcKHQHk4
Part 2: (Better)
HONDA HEATER CORE IS FLUSHED – PART 2 – YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg2y8pKsPgw
… ok that’s the Honda so that’s what I got right now.
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Now, about the Blazer….*Note to all watching: YES THERE WAS DEFINITELY WATER DOWN INSIDE THE CYLINDERS! AS WAS NOTED, IT GOT THERE IN EXTINGUISHING A FIRE FROM AN IDIOT HELPER MECHANIC. MAYBE I CAN DO ALL THIS MYSELF. ANYWAYS.. I ALSO PUT SOME MMO IN THERE OR “MARVEL MYSTERY OIL” AS A “PISTON SOAK” SO THAT WOULD EXPLAIN ANY RED STUFF. I ALSO BELIEVE WATER EVAPORATED, AS IT HAS BEEN HOT OUT HERE. I also should just leave that small puddle of MMO; When everything goes back on, I am sure it will get sucked in. Can’t hurt. Won’t do anything anyways.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaLVBCiP3Ek
So. How was that ?
