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To save time down the road and as preventative maintenance replace the water pump, tensioner and belt. I’ve done just a belt for someone before and insisted that they get the tensioner and pump but no. 6 months later the water pump seized and ripped the belt and toasted the motor.
So if I force it into 1rst gear and accelerate with 3/4 throttle it’ll rev all the way to 5000 rpm with plenty of power. Same in 2nd and 3rd. Don’t ask how I made it do that. I run an eprom emulator and can make it do dumb stuff. It’s only at wide open throttle. I’m starting to think it might have to much fuel. Is that even possible? To rich fuel/air mixture can cause loss of power at high rpm? Because with the way this computer is setup wot is power enrichment which takes it out of closed loop fueling unlike 3/4 throttle it’ll stay in closed loop fueling. So I’m thinking that maybe the injectors are causing it to flood. It has a lot of power at 3/4 throttle. Plenty of power. Essentially is it possible that it is flooding at 3500+rpm causing misfires leading to lack of power?
I’ve never seen an upstream that is bad cause a p0421. That catalyst efficiency low on warm up not cat below threshold.
Check for clogged or clogging cat. Check fuel pressure. Check for carbon tracking. Google is your friend. If carbon tracking replace wire or coils or boots depending on which type it has.
It’s not upstream. It never is. It’s a bad cat or lazy o2 sensor on the downstream. Get a live data scanner and check to see if it fluctuates at a good speed. Couple times per second. Toyotas tend to be less tolerant to those tricks. I bet it’s just a bad o2 sensor. Down stream o2 not upstream. Just stay away from the bosch. Use the denso even if it’s 30 more. They just work.
It’s chinese. Expect failure soon. The waste gate is probably stuck closed and it’s surging. I’ve had absolutely nothing but bad luck with chinese turbos. Even the ones that are 700 for just the turbo. Bearing failure, Oil seal failure, turbine shaft problems, exhaust side turbine wheel problems, compressor side shearing off. The most interesting one was no oil drainback. Apparently it wasn’t machined drainback so it just caused it to pop the seal and oil went everywhere. Most of these I’ve worked on were custom installs that people bought the kit off ebay but I’ve seen a few ones where it was a “good quality” one that failed. Even though they lasted 10-15k miles that’s still unacceptable longevity. I’d cut your loses and pull it off and get a different reman or rebuild the old one. When it comes to chinese turbos that just stay away.
I drilled holes in the exhaust to drain myself. It literally comes off the y pipe then 22 inches of 2.5 piping into a muffler then dumps 2 inches after the cab. No cat. I’ve burned up 4 so far and didn’t feel like dealing with it anymore.
Is it a bigger turbo than what was on it? You may be getting low speed compressor stall. But it could be that the journal is sticking and hitting the housing. I don’t like aftermarket reman turbos or chinese turbos. Had several problems with reman ones. One I put on even though I checked the waste gate which worked I guess the diaphragm was broken and it almost blew the motor. Damn thing hit 40 psi. Toasted the turbo and almost blew the motor.
I bet at some point if the trans is a 4l60e it’s been rebuilt and maybe someone decided to put a shift kit into it. MY transmission with light up the tires going into second when past 1/2 throttle accelerating. It shifts really hard and fast. It’ll drop from 3600 to 2000 and hit hard. Not that its bad for my transmission. 5 pinion planetaries are so much stronger than those garbage 3 pinions.
If you think the voltage drop is to much then get a nice piece of 2 gauge wire and solder ring terminals on both ends and put a 120 amp fuse in the middle of it.
Tear apart everything that moves on the brake system and clean and lube with synthetic high temp grease. If noise persists. Switch pads. My brakes squeak like hell. And everything in the front is under a year old. It happens with semi metallic pads period. Don’t like it switch to ceramic pads. Ceramic squeak to. Organic.
Did you use a piece of see through hose that fits around the nipple of the caliper bleeder snug? If not you screwed up and need to get one now. After you get one from say home depot or wherever take said hose but to length of 15 inchs or there abouts and put into empty container filled half way with brake fluid. Make sure the hose is submerged under the brake fluid and bleed from right rear to left rear to front right to left right. If the vehicle is left hand drive. If it is right hand drive bleed from left rear to right rear to front left to front right. Make sure no more bubbles form when brake pedal is pressed and you open the bleeder. So in short. Bleed, bleed, bleed.
Check fuel pressure. Is it within spec. If so. Turn key on once and then turn off for 15 seconds and turn on again and then attempt to start engine. Does it start right up that time? If so suspect fuel pressure regulator anyway. But another thing to do is 0-60 blast full throttle. Does it lack power at high rpm? If so suspect fuel blockage or fuel pressure regulator.