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You can rebleed the master on the car. Crack the lines open and keep adding fluid. Then crack at prop valves. And then at wheel cylinders.
I’m with collegeman. OEM only on clocksprings. Be careful not to set off those stupid airbags. I’ve accidentally set one off before. Was not fun getting smacked in the face and knocked out for 5 minutes.
For trans coolers I have gone the route of taking the outlet line off the transmission and using an external cooler then routing back through the radiator cooler. Keeps it warmer while still keeping temps down. Also another thing is there are transmission thermostats out there.
Does the vehicle see mostly in town driving? If so you might want to run some carbon cleaner in it. I’ve seen slight pinging show up as misfires. Also check fuel pressure to make sure you’ve got enough fuel at that speed.
Smell the fluid. See if it smells burnt. Could be the epc. I had a similar issue on my 4l60 before it’s rebuild. It was the accumulator piston getting stuck. I went with billet servo and accumulators. But that’s the expensive solution. Could also be check balls getting stuck on the spacer plate. I had that problem to. It seems common with the steel check balls. But I think yours has the non metallic ones.
It’s probably the spider injectors going bad. It’s so common that I can tell you it’s more than likely than. Check fuel pressure with key on engine off and see if it leaks down. If it leaks down more than 1psi every 5 minutes it’s probably the poppets.
It feels like a rev limiter essentially. But it will still pick up rpm but very slowly. Like it’s breaking up. I can’t confirm if it’s a fuel issue or not. It’s got good pressure and the injectors flow good. I had a wide band hooked up and it didn’t lean out past 13:1 afr. Just no power.
Google 5sfe iac calibration. But first clear the codes and see if it comes back. If it does then you verify it has a actual problem. Make sure the connector isn’t damaged as well.
Regulator is after injectors. Measured via mechanical fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter. I even bypassed the fuel filter to make sure it wasn’t clogged. 9-13 psi is stock fuel pressure for gm tbi 88-94 except 454.
Was the wheel balanced properly? Could be a bent rim. But if they replaced it don’t see why it would be. But the pull is probably because it needs an alignment. Or a bent subframe. Yeah. I had the horrible experience of helping putting together a 2008 corolla that had a bent subframe and the body guys refused to put it in the parts order. So I told them to bend it back. Didn’t work out quite well. That car still probably pulls left and eats tires. A lot of places will skimp on what the vehicle needs when they fix it so they can make more profit. That’s why I don’t work at that dealer anymore.
The TBI is throttle body injection. Its the injector on top of the throttle body. Reliable design. The throttle plate bushings are where the throttle blade pin that holds the plate in place goes through the throttle body. They are usually metal. Over time they can wear from throttle actuation. But that doesn’t seem like that’d be the issue from your video. I’d use brake cleaner or something flammable as wd40 doesn’t really do the trick in my experiences. Could be a vacuum leak but probably isn’t. Make sure your coolant temp sensor is working.