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I learned from my dad when I was young. I used to work with him on my summer vacations and went to votech school in high school for collision repair and paint. I later spent a couple of decades in the corporate world but never really stopped working on cars and kept somewhat current with technology. When I got burned out doing the corporate work I went back into the auto field part time and quickly came up to speed as a flat rate line tech at Chrysler dealership and then moved around a few shops until I found a place that I really like.
If you really want to get into this field you have to love learning and don’t wear your feelings on your shirt sleeves this can be a very rewarding career that will also serve you up plenty of humility. I think most new guys either come into the field as an apprentice from the lube bay or fresh from trade schools. I think either way is fine as long as you understand that the learning curve is steep and everyday will teach you new things. Some days it will seem like you can do nothing right and on other days you can do no wrong. Be realistic in your expectations. You will pay your dues much like we all have there are not many short cuts in this business you have to put in the time to learn no matter what.
Do you know which cylinder?
Chances are you have either a bad sparkplug or bad a bad coil. But you need to find out what cylinder is having the issue.
[quote=”Iznogood” post=174241]I find it amazing, that you guys (America in general) fiddle around with A/C systems like it´s nothing. The coolant is both toxic and bad to got out in the atmosphere and yet you can buy it in any convenience store like chips or rice pudding.
Many here talks about using coolant to check for leaks, which means they are venting it, until they find the leak. Or just keeps filling up.
You know, here in Denmark, you have to be bloody certified to work with that stuff and you have to show your certificate to be able to buy the damn coolant.
Some here talks about evacuating the system, but into what ? I don´t see any pick up canisters in the kits you can get off Ebay. So you just suck the coolant out and vent it ?
Test for leaks with vacuum and nitrogen. NOT with coolant !! Even compressed air can do it, if you have taken the water out.[/quote]
I couldn’t agree with you more. As a technician I also have to be certified to work on AC systems and if I were to vent to the atmosphere I would be heavily fined if caught doing that. I wish that auto parts stores couldn’t sell refrigerant either although I do make good money when one of those charge it home kits causes major damage from improper use. This is one area of repair that I do not offer advice or instruction on to for the DIY person.
Yes, But most likely you can take the broken stud out and replace it with a new stud or an equal length bolt.
Things are a lot different now. Take new GM’s for instance the radio has a module that needs to report back to the body control module. You remove the radio and put an aftermarket unit other stuff stops working because the module is missing. Other manufactures have similar issues.
The shoes need to be able to move so that they can press against the drums. I have done similar shimming with a washer like that. Not the optimal but acceptable. You might be able to get a shorter pin to do the same thing but if the backing plates are thin enough to pull in you might want to think about replacing them all together
As far as how hard to remove and replace the backing plate? What are you working on?
Is there any of the stud sticking up far enough to grab it with some vice grips and turn it out?
If not you will probably have to drill into the stud and use an extractor to remove the broken part.We are almost as bad as California when it comes to emissions but no safety inspections what so ever.
No injectors on this old pig. carburetor and your basic primitive ignition box with vacuum advance.
i was testing the coil and plugs to see which cylinders were not firing correctly. that is after I found 1 bad wire and two bad plugs giving it random miss fires on 3 cylinders. I changed all the plugs wires cap and rotor but it was nice to be able to verify that was fixed using the scope as a before and after snap shot.I also broke out the 5 gas analyzer to verify that I had corrected the hi CO and HC condition.
And to answer your other comment up to 1982 gets the idle and 2500 rpm E test everything else gets the enhanced IM240 dyno test and now on newer cars they just check to see if all of the monitors have ran and no obdII faults. .
Showing my age here but this is how we found the ignition problems back in the day. I was getting a 79 CJ5 to pass emissions it had high CO and HC so first things first what’s the ignition system up to. No black box to tell me what cylinder or cylinders were not happy
A little more info to help you work on this in the future
Use a paper clip or jumper wire and connect the two terminals on the top right of 16 pin connector on the bottom of the dash looks like the obd II connector.
Turn the key on and count the check engine light flashes for codes you will get 2 digit codes. This is an obi I system so if you have the old Snap on red brick you can use it on this vehicle if you also have the cards[quote=”Evil-i” post=174073]Unless someone has re-engineered things, that truck should have throttle body injection.
If I remember correctly, Russian Ladas were the last carburetted vehicles available in North America, and I’m pretty sure even these primitive lumps were fuel injected by ’92. Ironically, GM developed the fuel injection system for Lada.[/quote]
I believe 87 was the introductory year for TBI on the S-10’s
[quote=”Nodak81″ post=174048]Correct me if I’m wrong but I thought all the engine options for a ’92 were TBI in some form, not carburated. Sounds like an injector is stuck open, or an injector wire could be grounded out so it’s staying open soon as the key is cycled. O-ring could be an issue too.[/quote]
This is the correct answer
