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Is the clutch fork bent? Or possibly disconnected from the ball side as to not be able to move if it is jammed inside the bell housing.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=175420]I got more… mistakes and stupid stuff too.
Had a pretty beat 1968 Pontiac LeMans (this was my brothers $200 car) and we cut the roof off with a sawzall. Almost looked like a real convertible without a top.
Driving down the highway one day, and a car pull up next to us and the drivers says “nice dents”. This think had dented fenders, quarters, trunk, twisted bumpers, and such.I guess, if you asked my wife, it would have been when I rolled the RamCharger. I called her and said “I’m OK, but I rolled the RamCharger.” I think she wanted more details at the time, but the medics were checking me out. Only got some scratches from the shattered glass.[/quote]
I rolled my old Ram Charger too. Well technically it was a flop but it was in a bad place for extraction.
[quote=”Buggyboy” post=175339]Nobody here knows anything huh???[/quote]
Help us help you. What are you working on?
[quote=”451Mopar” post=175373]What ever is in the best condition at the lowest cost?[/quote]
This is what I would pick too
If you sell the snap on you will likely get what you paid for them. The craftsman might net you half of what you paid.
September 13, 2016 at 5:11 am in reply to: remove and install transfer case on awd 2008 ford #868052Marking the drive shafts is to eliminate possible driveline vibrations. Disconnecting the battery is prevent possible electrical shorts if you accidentally ground a hot wire. The problem to me sounds like you either have a stretched chain or a inop shift encoder motor that is not letting it shift out of 4×4.
At idle or WOT?
If idle what trans auto or manual?You also have to factor in the parasitic drag of the drive train and the final gear ratio. The HP rating off the crank will always be more than the rating taken from the wheels. Also be realistic. 127 HP off the crank is not very much power to begin with.
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=174964]Actually I have the theory that spark plug sockets came before the ratchet.
That’s why a lot of them you see have a bolt head at the top that you can put a wrench on.
That’s just a theory though…plus before ratchets we had these things that sockets could probably go on
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/ddd48cd11f10a7fc1f22f9de86622527.jpg[/IMG][/quote]They still make a tool like that for sockets. They are called speed handles and I love them when for putting a trans or oil pan back on
Air ratchets make them even more awesome
The factory radio contains a module for entertainment. in it that reports back to other modules and may cause other issues with other modules if it is missing.
I have had several issues related to hvac and anti theft systems due to aftermarket head units.I am not familiar with that particular vehicle but on others I have had luck unbolting motor mounts and lifting the engine a couple of inches and rotating the crankshaft to keep the counter weight of of the way and sliding the pan out.
Good luck.
Yes you can swap the axles and they will work the same. You will just have a part time system instead of full time system.
You will have to keep in mind that on slippery roads in 2wd it will be easier spin out with the locking rear.On that particular system the fuel pump is wired in with the oil pressure sending unit. If oil pressure is low it will shut off the pump.
Spray it with a little starting fluid if it starts check the fuel pump relay.They are all different sounds for each engine. Subaru’s for example have some nasty sounding piston slap until they warm up. Sometimes other knocks are from engine accessories. Knocks can come from anywhere you just have to sort them out to find out what they are.
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