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That is pretty much normal for all C clip diffs not just the fords. Put the cover and fill it with the proper fluid. Nothing you can do about that.
The best course of action to prevent build up is to use top tier fuels. The reason why additives in the tank don’t work very well is because the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber and not the in the intake so no fuel washed over the valves. In the most extreme cases I end up pulling the intake manifold off and cleaning the valves by scraping the carbon off of them and then using a shop vac to suck up the chunks before I put it back together. We have had also been able to use BG intake clean injected into the throttle body on some of the lighter cases.
If you don’t have the time money etc to take on a project like that I would be inclined to let it go to a home that can do the restoration work. Too many times I see those vehicles sit and rot away before the owners will let an enthusiast take it and do the work that needs to be done. We are losing our classics because of the “someday” that never comes for them. Some parts are already hard to find for restorations they will be even harder to find 10 years from now
making it even harder to complete the project making it sit even longer. Pictures would help as well.Any of the domestic trucks would be great. You didn’t mention where out west you would be going so I assume that you will be in the rockies at some point. If you are going to spend any amount of time in the rockies I recommend a truck with a V-8 our high altitude mountain passes will suck the horse power right out of any of the 4 and 6 cylinder vehicles even more so if they are loaded down. If this is a one time trip with not a lot of time spent in the big mountains a smaller vehicle with a smaller engine will work just be warned that you will crawl up the mountain passes at a snails pace.
In no particular order
Chevy Silverado with 5.3
F-150 with the 5.4
Chevy tahoe with 5.3Change the pinion flange for the proper drive shaft that you have. Don’t forget the loctite when you put the nut back on the pinion gear
[quote=”AlexanderB” post=176249][quote=”Hinoki” post=173599]Once again, I cross the yellow line and venture into the Technician’s Only forum.
I apologize for the transgression, but I wanted to chime in.[/quote]
Another one here!Let me start off with this: not a certified car mechanic, but have home-rebuilt serveral cars, the first one before ever setting foot in an actual shop. The only time I even come into a shop is either for the mandatory annual safety inspection (where I *have* to watch in order for them to tell me what, if anything, is gonna need fixing), or something has gone wrong in a confusing way and I can’t get a diagnose (by) myself.
[quote=”gmule” post=171837]I hate them too. Just let me do my job please.[/quote]
Sure, but can I quietly stand and watch? No asking questions needed. Will exchange conversation if required/desired. No grumpy face, no judging.
In fact, having the car on a lift is a good opportunity to check our the underside, and that pretty much means I won’t even be looking at what you’re doing, just at the rest of the c[quote=”gmule” post=171837]You know who I hate the worst? Those guys that come in with a problem I spend time diagnosing it and then they go home and do the work themselves. [/quote]
So? I pay a day of my wage for one hour of your diagnostic time, I pay for the service of diagnostics, I can do the wrenching myself. I’ve only done this on 2 or 3 occasions though in the past 6 years, the techs at the shop I went to didn’t seem to mind this at all, they were/are quite nice.Oh, I just thought of something, when I go to the tire shop, I just bring them the wheels and tires and put them on the car myself at home. Not so much a torque nazi, but I really can’t deal with the lug bolts being air-hammered to 3x the specified torque, even if that wouldn’t damage stuff, they would still be impossible to get back off at the side of a road in case of a flat. (I’ve been there, I needed a 4 ft extension and my full weight standing on it, for bolts specced to 90 nm.) So I guess I do judge on shops where they use the impact gun to ‘torque’ wheel bolts.[/quote]
If you are paying for diagnostic time that is great. If not you are stealing the technicians time. Us flat rate guys only make money while the wrenches are turning. It seems that most customers only value the repair and don’t think they should have to pay for diagnostics. At my shop the diagnostic time is credited to the cost of the repair.
I figure if you can make the repairs you can figure out what is wrong too.
I had the opportunity to test drive a P65 model S. First impression was that the car was well built and well thought out my second thought was what a joy it will be to work on. The entire drive train has 24 moving parts. It is a little weird at first because it sounds like a space ship but that noise fades out quick when you drive it. The electronics look like they will be able to pretty much self diagnose everything on the car. I liked the absence of buttons an knobs on the instrument panel because everything is controlled by a single touch screen in the middle of the cockpit. At a price of 95k here are a few gasoline powered cars I would rather have.
The fuel pressure regulator is inside the intake manifold. You may want to remove the upper intake and turn the key on and off a few cycles and see if you get fuel pooling in the intake from either a bad regulator or a compromised fuel injector line to one or more injectors that are also inside the intake.
Are you working on a specific vehicle or is this a general question?
On older vehicles you could take off the distributor cap and turn the crank bolt and see how much play you had between the distributor in relation to how far the crank moved. Some of the newer vehicles have a cover you can remove over the tensioner to see if the tensioner is all the way extended and some you get to go all out and remove the covers.