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Check those front wheel bearings while you have it in the air. With engine off grab the tire and see if you can move the hub right and left or up and down. If they seem tight see if you can put the vehicle in drive and let the wheels free spin in the air and see if you can hear the bearing grinding.
As far as the brake fluid leaking check and see if your slave cylinder is leaking. With the noises you have described and the lack of maintenance you might want to consider replacing the clutch sooner rather then later
[quote=”Cammed 05″ post=154935]I love the 3 pack a day smoker vehicles. Just a absolute joy to work on lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/quote]
yeah those are pretty bad.
How many miles do you have on it?
What condition are the spark plugs in?
Do you get any other codes with the misfires?Make sure you keep the tap straight and go slow. Turn the tap a couple of turns and see if the bolt will go in straight if not go a little deeper with the tap.
I also have a set of the Mountains and love them. My Mac dealer has only had to warranty out the 8mm one but was not using it correctly and it started slipping
Sometimes you can chase bad threads with a tap. Other times you may have drill the hole larger and put helicoil in or drill the hole to the next size and re tap the hole. It all depends on what you are working on and how bad the threads are messed up.
Imho certification is a way of proving to a potential customer or employer that you know what you are doing. Sure you can get a job without it but you may be able to negotiate a better wage with your certs.
We are going to need a little bit of information about what you are working on.
Year, make, model, and what engine would be a great place to start.I wouldn’t recommend sanding on the pads who knows what they are made of and what health risk could be associated with breathing that dust.
A couple of things to check come to mind. Brake clips are lightly touching the rotor. The paint on the sides of the pads is thick rubbing the rotor or a contaminated pad. Did you use a semi metallic or a ceramic pad? If you used a semi metallic pas they are noisier than the ceramic.As far as the location of the pads go the pad with the wear indicator should go on the inside.
If it won’t go onto gear it probably has a bad clutch. If I were closer I would snag that in a heartbeat. That car in my location is worth about 3,500 with 200k on the clock. Imho Subaru are some of the easiest cars to work on. But then I work on a ton of them so I have a lot of experience with hem
I have a mac EM710 it is set up for auto functions, You can use it for a tachometer. It has temperature probes and the set came with a current loop and does all of the normal dvom functions in addition to the auto specific stuff. It was under 500 new and I have seen them on Craig list and the like for half that.
I use the torch on a lot of that stuff heat it up until the nut is cherry red and they usually spin right of. Of course that won’t work on everything due to clearance and such but if you got the room it works great.. other times the customer needs to know that breakage is a possibility on those types of vehicles.
[quote=”Pitt” post=154168][quote=”gmule” post=154150]I’m new here and haven’t fully explored the entire site yet but I was wondering is there a board or thread that the members have reviewed tools?
Never mind I found the tool talk board[/quote]
MDK22 did a really nice review for tools. He reviewed what he uses on a daily basis and he is a diesel tech. So make sure you consider those things when reading the review. Personally it has helped me tremendously.[/quote]
I read that post and thought that everything in that post was spot on. I was looking for something along the lines of tools that really did their job well and were worth their money no matter what brand they were.. I found the tool talk board and it looks promising I just need more time to sift through all the threads.