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Ioan-Marius Muntianu


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Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • in reply to: ETCG Answers Questions Live #82 (AMA) 2/15/2017 #876510

    Hi Eric,

    I have a more general automotive question:
    How do you know when a car has become a money pit?

    My 2006 Ford Mondeo mk3 2.0 TDCI had quite a few issues. It has 300.000 kilometers and in the past 2 years I had to replace the exhaust, all the suspension components and now the AC is gone. Also it still has some performance issues I am trying to figure out. Not sure if it is becoming a money pit or I have that feeling just because spare parts are expensive here in Denmark.

    Many thanks for all the time you spend teaching us how to fix our cars.

    in reply to: Lower Control Arms/Outer Tie Rods 1998 Mazda 626 #875252

    Hi Eric

    I am about to replace the suspension and lower control arms on my 2006 Ford Mondeo TDCI.
    I have a question for you. My control arms look life in the picture below. Do I still need to tighten the bolts while the car is on the ground or is that something specific to the Mazda you worked on?


    in reply to: Flashing glow plug light #875106

    Hello again

    I haven’t had the time to work on the issue until now. I tried to provoke the fault again and couldn’t do it.
    I have scanned the computer again and I have just seen the there are some other faults. I am now thinking the engine is ok and the problem lies somewhere else.
    This car has an fuel fired auxiliary heater that should turn on if the outside temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius and the head temperature does not exceed 60 degrees Celsius. I knew the heater did not work from last year. It had a code saying the blower motor has an open circuit.
    However now it has set a code saying Auxiliary Heated faulted.
    I am thinking the main ECU did not know the heater is faulted and it does not use any fuel, just pumped more fuel and that would give the Pressure too high code I have seen before.
    I managed to find a set of gaskets for this heater and will give it an overhaul soon.

    First I have to change the suspension and some bushings

    in reply to: Flashing glow plug light #873114

    So I am back

    I checked the actuator with the scan tool and it moves with no problems.
    Since the last time the code disappeared so I went on the highway and tried to provoke it again.
    And after a few tries it did it again. the same flashing light with limp mode.

    I checked it for codes and this time I got three:
    P132B – Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance (the same as before)
    P0191 – Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1
    P2288 – Injector Control Pressure Too High

    Now I am thinking it is a fuel delivery issue. I’ll have to check the connections and the wires, but I don’t think that is an issue (if it would be that it would do it all the time I would guess). I am hoping is not the fuel pump that starts to fail because that will be expensive and quite hard to replace (I have to take the engine out because there is not enough space). I would think that if the pump would be an issue I would get a “Pressure Too Low” code instead.
    From what I read there could be many things for this combination of codes. I am thinking to start with a fuel filter replacement (was done last year), checking all the connections and wires, cleaning the injectors. I’ll also do an oil change while I am at it as it just passed 10000 km since last change.
    Do you think I am on the right track with this?

    I have an ultrasonic cleaner bath and will use that for the injectors. Do you know what solution I should use? What would be best for injector cleaning?


    in reply to: Flashing glow plug light #872807

    I think you are right. It could be the actuator.
    I have seen on some forums people having problems with that and getting the same code.
    It has some small wires inside that break, but since I have seen it move under load I excluded the actuator.

    I will try and see if the diagnostic tool can control the actuator directly. I know it can control other things. I used it for the ABS and some time ago I used to control the EGR. If I can’t test it I will just open the actuator to take a look at it. What I am afraid of is that just re-soldering won’t work due the heat. By the look of the picture I think the wires are ultrasonic welded.
    I’ll let you know if get anywhere with it.

    in reply to: Flashing glow plug light #872792

    I have tried all they say already.
    The thing is that the actuator doesn’t really move the vanes while the vehicle is stationary. I think it would only open them under load.
    I had a small stethoscope camera next to it while driving and I could see that it moves quite a lot under hard acceleration.
    So the vanes move freely as I said before, the actuator is able to move them and I checked all the intake piping for split hoses.
    I am thinking there is a small boost leak somewhere on the intake since the computer only measures pressure and temps. Could it be that?
    Or could it be that the EGR is busted and it leaks boost?


    in reply to: ETCG Answers Questions Live #78 (AMA) 11/23/2016 #872558

    Hi Eric

    Back again with a question about my Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI.
    Sometimes under heavy acceleration the glow plug light starts flashing and the engine gets in limp mode. After I restart the engine everything goes back to normal.
    I checked it for codes and has a P132b. From what I found online the code pops up when the turbo vanes are sticking. I just checked them and they move freely.
    I am a bit confused on how to go forward with this issue because this car doesn’t have that many sensors. I have a Autel MaxiDas scanner and all the sensors I can see are intake temp and pressure, MAF, EGR position and turbo actuator position. No other sensors on exhaust.
    What do you think it could be? Or should I just be more gentle with it and leave it like that?

    Many thanks.

    in reply to: ETCG Answers Questions Live #74 (AMA) 9/28/2016 #869216

    Hi Eric

    Early this summer I asked you a few questions about rebuilding my braking system and how the ABS works.
    In the end I decided to do the caliper overhaul as well.
    It all went well, no leaks and brakes feel great.

    Here are some pictures of the results:

    in reply to: ETCG Answers Questions Live #73 (AMA) 9/7/2016 #867722

    Hi Eric
    I have just seen your answer to the tire question.

    [quote=”RSchweter” post=174950]The spare tire I have is definitely tube type (as it is on a bolt type split rim) , but I don’t know if the tires on the vehicle are or not. All the tires are around 20 or so years old, and use the old rim size based size system. The tires are all stamped 7.50 – 16 c, which is the wheel dimension and load rating, but the overall diameter is not printed. The wheels on the vehicle all have 30″ tires, however the spare is a 32″ which is what the vehicle was designed for. The problem I’m running into is trying to figure out what the tire size is in the modern notation; I’ve called Land Rover, and they have no information going back that far, and I stumped a Goodyear representative who I spoke to. Also the few conversion charts I’ve been able to find online don’t go up to tires as big as mine. Do you have any information on how to convert the sizing systems?[/quote]

    I had a few issues myself looking tor tires. I was trying to change the rim size so I had to look for different tire size.
    What I found about tire sizes is:
    The first number is the tire width in milliliters
    The second number is the aspect ratio of the sidewall (So 50 means the sidewall will be half the tire width)
    And the last number is wheel diameter in inches

    Hope this helps calculating the tire size.


    in reply to: Cleaning turbo vanes #857242


    Sorry for the late answer. I was very busy the last week and couldn’t answer.
    The vanes are sticking to the plate they are moving on. You can see the vanes configuration in the picture below.

    You are saying that they will just get carbonated and that it true for a petrol engine. On diesel engines, and mine is a diesel, that carbon buildup is not dry, but is a bit wet and sticky. That is because diesel is oily itself and will not evaporate like petrol.

    I was looking for a way to clean the turbo without taking it off the car as I am afraid not to destroy its balance. Beside that I know that priming it with oil when remounting can be a challenge.

    Thanks for your opinion on this. I will try and see if there is any other method for cleaning it without removing it from the car.

    in reply to: Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI noisy, vibrating and smoke #854239


    A small update. I finally managed to get the car to the workshop to look at the problems.
    What I did was just to clean up all the intake path from the filter, MAF sensor, intake side of the turbo, inter-cooler, piping, air temperature sensors, EGR valve and intake manifold.

    There was a bit of oil in the pipes, but not as much as I expected.

    The intercooler was quite dirty and I couldn’t see through. Now all the gunk is out.

    I still have to change the air filter because it looks like it needs changing.
    I also changed the oil and filter since it was close to change date anyways.

    The car war running rough for about 50 km while the ECU learned to work with the new values, but now all the noises are gone.
    While I was at it and disassembling stuff to get to the inter-cooler I found some plastic things that were fixed with plastic clips and had a bit of play. I changed all the plastic clips with screws just to make sure the noise is not coming from those.

    I am still planning on checking the oil pressure and make the compression test. I have spoken with the guys responsible of the workshop and they have ordered the testers, but it will take a few weeks before I will have time to go again and make the tests. I will keep you posted.

    Many thanks
    Still dirty 3 days after getting out of the workshop. 😉

    in reply to: Headlights dimming #854234


    I managed to check it while I was cleaning the intake.
    The positive wire on the alternator was a bit corroded so I replaced the whole wire with a thicker one.
    I also added a under engine cover (I didn’t had one before) to prevent water splashing on the alternator in the future.
    Now everything works perfectly.
    Thanks guys

    in reply to: Headlights dimming #853897

    I haven’t got the time to look at it yet. I can only access the alternator from under the car and that made it harder.
    I have booked a lift at the club for Monday to clean the intake, EGR and intercooler. So I will probably check this as well.

    in reply to: Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI noisy, vibrating and smoke #845536

    Hi Eric

    I am member of an auto club and I have access to full workshop with all kind of tools. We do have one of this OBD scanner. Could this make my life easier in finding the problem?

    I looked over the tools we have and I can’t find a gauge for the oil pressure test. I was thinking to use the live data on the OBD scanner for this, but I dont know which parameters to look for.

    For the compression test should I take out the injectors instead of the spark plugs?

    Regarding the vacuum I was just thinking that since the EGR valve is vacuum operated and I have an open end in the system that could generate some of the problems.

Viewing 14 replies - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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