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What’s your location?
If you are near me, I’ll come by and help.
Do you have an electronic throttle body (do you see any metal wires/cables near throttle body or is it all electrical cabling)?
A 2000 Honda civic is likely a drive by cable, so it should be OK to open it up and see if it’s moving. If you flooded your engine with gas, there are some good suggestions on how to clear the flood.
Thank you DaFirnz for clarifying. I should have written my OP better, but it was already getting long. I will edit it to make it more clear.
More specifically, my question can be broken down into 3:
1. are there inexpensive interfaces (MVCI compatible) out there for HDS (just like the $35- interface for the Toyota I showed in the video)
2. Is the HDS just as available as the Techstream for the average DIY?
3. Can anyone with a credit card connect to the manufacturer (to download updates etc) using Techstream or HDS or is a dealership license required first?Essentially I’m trying to figure out, if I ever needed to go beyond OBD2, which car gives me an option to still do something myself instead of needing to run to a dealer.
I use the very same BAFX one. Cost me less than $30 I think, around $25 incl. tax and S&H from NewEgg.
I did have a very price sensitive customer who wanted to learn how to diag. her own car in the future, and I showed her a ELMII on Ebay that she paid $4 for. ALL IN.
Worked great on her Android and was faster than my BAFX one! Pretty cool.
Great job there Kevin!
As I said in my post http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/62191-2001-nissan-sentra-starts-then-dies/reply/158529#158114
EGR failure can definitely cause a rough idle and stalling, but other causes are more likely than this failing
What were the odds!
Did you try swapping the COP that’s on the same timing as cylinder 3?
Do the same for cylinder 2 to see if the issue follows.
Definitely check for air leaks.
I’m also curious why you have such wiring issues? Did the previous owner try and replace wiring with aftermarket?
Your idle relearn willl require a CONSULT compatible tool, and I believe there is a pedal dance method too, but not sure.
Keep us posted and have a good week
Off topic, but do manufacturers mention the amount of brake fluid in the reservoir and master cylinder?
My owner or FSM does not mention it, and neither does those of the cars I have helped out on, but I am not a professional mechanic, so my exposure is very little.
Is it atypical for manufacturers mention the amount of brake fluid in the reservoir and master cylinder?
I’m really conflicted about this.
One one had, I don’t want to waste your time and money behind chasing technical issues like this, and on the other hand I wish I had the ability to communicate with other members directly.
The security issue being fixed might take some significant resources depending on how complicated it is.
Just today I wanted to PM college man about a question I had with one of his suggestions to another member and posting that question in the thread could derail the thread, so I did not.
I have decided to work around the issue by creating a thread that has my question and invite college man (and others) to share their knowledge there, but this won’t work in every situation and has the side effect of creating many threads.
So a long term solution could be to use a FaceBook (or similar) page that allows direct messaging?
OK, so if the fuel has no leaks, injectors are working fine and the sparks are flying that means, the engine is not able to hold compression (among other things).
So a compression or leak test is in order.
I hope you have tested out these first?
Also, the low hanging fruit like PCV, CAM/CRANK Position sensors? O2 sensor? Clogged fuel filter?
As college man said, if these sensors are bad, your spark plugs will not work in sync and cause the engine to die.
EGR failure can definitely cause a rough idle and stalling, but other causes are more likely than this failing, so we need to rule these out one by one.
[quote=”Kevin92394″ post=158075]
is there a way to temporarily bypass the egr so i could see if that is the problem?
[/quote]Yes, It’s also possible to temporarily byass the EGR completely to see if it is indeed at fault (getting it done though is outside a forum’s ability unless someone makes a video and shows it to you).
I’m not sure if someone will tell you how to bypass it though, as the car will continue to run “fine” without it, but it not only will fail SMOG but showing people how to bypass emissions devices is possibly frowned upon 🙂
[quote=”Kevin92394″ post=158075]
Also, I would like to add that the same problem occurs when i start the car without the MAF plugged in.[/quote]Can you check the MAF readings through OBDII by blowing into the air filter using a clean blower and see if the sensor readings change accordingly?
In general, I recommend not throw parts at a problem until you have a good indication of what the root cause is.
Video with the issue in progress will help us too. If you have a smart phone or camera, have someone video or audio record the process from the starter engaging through the engine dying.
Satish, post detailed pictures of your engine bay.
Do you have the service manual for your car?
Also, if your engine is flooded, a lot of sensors (among other parts) beyond the ECM might be damaged.
How much is the ECM costing you and will the dealer work with you on this?
The ECM is not plug and play. There are some constant look up tables that will need to be copied across ECUs, or your engine will run rough. Your dealer will know the relearn programming procedures.
I would love to be corrected by the experienced members on this forum.
Trace the fuel line to ensure there are no leaks.
Also, the fuel pump is 15 years old at this point and so are the seals on the line. The fuel line should have a connection near the firewall: check that area too.
Video with the issue in progress will help us too.
Hello SEG18T,
Did you find a solution?
I had a few questions for you:
1. Do you have the old spark plugs, or pictures of those spark plugs?
2. How did the throttle body look like? How does the PCV look like?
3. Do you feel comfortable taking the top side off and taking pictures of the valves?
Also, in general stop leak products are not recommended, atleast not if you would like to car to last a bit more than a month or two.
[quote=”JefferyB4″ post=157621]Go to your insurance dealer and do the normal paper work that is done when getting insurance on a car, then pay for the insurance. One you have proof on insurance on the car, go to the DMV with the title, bill of sale and your new insurance policy and tell them you want to put a title in your name and get plates for your car.[/quote]
Great concise walkthrough.
I would like to recommend getting your insurance company involed a bit earlier.
Give them the VIN and ask them to do a check to see if the car’s been branded, stolen or otherwise.
Also ask them to confirm the last records against the VIN. Sometimes, the VIN will check out fine, but the VIN might have been copied.
If you don’t know how to check a VIN for authenticity, you can be duped and be out of your money pretty soon.
Also you might want to ask the insurance company to quote you premiums for the car. I have seen different VINs get different quotes because of some additional features between the two cars.
As I often go out with people to assist them in checking out cars before they take it to a shop for final inspection, I have seen cases where, even for the same model, two different VINs had two different quotes because one had some additional options.
Over the life of the car, the additional premiums can often add up, specially if you don’t care either way.
Stay safe!
Did you get a chance to inspect (and possibly clean) the butterfly valve? If you have not, I have been meaning to write a quick HOWTO for electronic throttle bodies that have a DC motor with encoders and can carry out idle sweeps even with the engine off.
Please let me know 🙂
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=151451]Yes, I pulled the original video. The reason is because of the ‘cleaning’ method that I showed. It’s something I’ve done for years, but some viewers had a point when they mentioned that it was an unsafe practice. Rather than respond to a million comments about how bad a practice it was, I decided to cut that part out of the video and repost it. As some of you may know, I’ve had to deal with a lot of flack over the past couple of weeks due to my Dealership Experience video. I honestly didn’t have the energy to deal with any more of that negativity.
This forum will be the only place where I offer any explanation as to what happened to the original video. [/quote]
Eric, I personally think the followup video was a waste of your time. You are entitled to your opinion and I did not see an issue with your original video about the Dealership Experience. People post worse stuff on Yelp to the point of making things up, and your video was your direct experience.
Perhaps in the future, for videos that can generate some controversy, instead of uploading publicly for any person to see, upload them here on this forum so only forum members can view and comment on them.
That way you can focus your energy on videos that you really enjoy making.
[quote=”plokiu” post=154422]My car is designed to use ATF as power steering fluid instead of a specific power steering fluid. However, the owner’s manual does not specify what kind of ATF should be used.[/quote]
I find this thread very vague. We don’t know the make/model of your car, nor do you link to any sources/references.
[quote=”plokiu” post=154422]it doesn’t really matter what kind of ATF is used as long as it’s a quality brand product. (I am talking only about the power steering here, not the actual transmission.)[/quote]
Could you point us to some of those threads?
Sounds very concerning. The chemistry of any lubricant has to be correct for and compatible with your car’s design. The fact that you bought a quality brand product is irrelevant.
A quality brand product could easily dissolve the seals in your rack or cause accelerated wear on the gears if it’s out of spec.
It’s like using 0w-30 engine oil in an engine rated for 5w-30. It does not matter you used a quality brand product. The chemistry’s just not compatible.
My car also uses ATF as power steering fluid, but the FSM mentions the fluid to be specifically Nissan Matic-D.
After research I found compatible fluids as Castrol Transmaxâ„¢ Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid or Valvoline (MaxLife) Dexron / Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid.
The owner’s manual might not specify these details, but the FSM should.
More importantly, why have you decided to change the power steering fluid?
What’s the specified maintenance schedule for your power steering fluid? The power steering fluid sees the least amount of suffering among all the fluids in your car.
I like this post. I did have a question:
1. Did you want this thread to be names of specific mechanics who are good?
2. Or do you want this thread to be names of specific shops regardless of the mechanic who worked on your car?I highly recommend Geoff Mesman who owns Mesman Motors at 24002 Via Fabricante # 509, Mission Viejo, CA 92691. I am very picky about the people I work with. They have to let me into the shop and explain to me what the issue is and how they plan to fix it. Since I do most of the maintenance myself, I will be going to shops for issues I cannot fix myself. I explain what my observations are and listen to what they have to say.
As a matter of principle I dont bring in my own parts but make sure they are using quality parts.
Most shops don’t care to do this. They are happy changing your fluids and flushing your transmission and giving you a $99 brake pad slap job so you go back to them in a year.
Mesman Motors is not like that. They care about their reputation and if they can see you know what you are talking about, they are more than happy to work with you.
Now that I moved to San Diego I have a few shops on my radar but my car seems to be happy with just me (knock on wood).