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[Richard Kirshy]

Lower compression can result in higher oil bypass which explains that plug being dirty.
Your dealing with a 10 year old vehicle with 200K on the clock..it’s not going to run like new.
You can try high mileage oil, Perhaps try some Marvel Mystery oil and see if you may have a clogged oil rig and maybe it can clean it up a bit.
But in the end it is what it is, you can baby it along and get as much out of it as possible.

[Richard Kirshy]

First ..triple check your ignition wiring.
Second, confirm mechanically the engine timing is correct.
Next try using starter fluid if the engine starts and dies your looking at a fuel delivery issue

[Richard Kirshy]

First thing to check is the window motor getting power when commanded by either switch.
If not ..you’ll need a wiring diagram of the circuit to see if there is a control module handling the function and continue testing there.

[Richard Kirshy]

You say ” osculating while idling ” I take you mean it’s shaking.
My first thought is attach a scan tool and look at live data and see if any reading are off where they should normally be.
I’m thinking first look at the fuel trims, both STFT and LTFT and see if they look good.

[Richard Kirshy]

First thing would be to read any CEL codes for some type of direction.

[Richard Kirshy]

There are rubber freeze out plug replacements that once installed you use a wrench to tighten them into place. (quick and dirty fix)
No promises on how long it will last though.
The preferred method would be to install a OEM metal plug.
As to how easy or difficult, you’ll need to get your eyes on the area.
You say it by the motor mount.
If so.. you may need to support the engine with a piece of wood and a floor jack and remove the motor mount to gain enough access to R&R the plug.

[Richard Kirshy]

You’d need a diagram of the circuit to see if the pairs of wires go to or from the same point.
My first thought is all the wires are different for the simple fact you have a five pin connector, but it may also be engineered as such.
Best to check and be safe.

[Richard Kirshy]

Depending on how long the engine was ran with diesel …
There possibility may be engine damage.
I would suggest R&R the spark plugs and perform both a compression and leak down test on all cylinders.
As to the injectors …you state they spray well …. spray well compared to what?
Did you test them to factory specs? of just going by visibly seeing fuel spray.
Did you test and confirm the fuel pump is within factory specs?

• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by Richard Kirshy.

[Richard Kirshy]

There is a low voltage output to the ECM, PCM, or ECU depending on your car.
Being you have already cleaned the element.
I would inspect the connections and wiring.
If those are good, time to R&R the MAF after18 years.

[Richard Kirshy]

Sounds like the Bendix is not pushing the starter gear forward to engage the flywheel.
Sorry to tell you .. your most likely gonna have to R&R it.

[Richard Kirshy]

Might try a leak down test on that low cylinder.
If there is a damaged valve you should be able to pin point it.

[Richard Kirshy]

I shouldn’t think so.

[Richard Kirshy]

Before replacing the entire compressor you may want to see if only the compressor clutch is the issue.
These can usually be replaced on their own without having to replace the entire compressor.

[Richard Kirshy]

Ok lets go with the basics here.
If your 1000% sure it is white smoke…
Does the cloud, once it exits the tail pipe dissipate fairly quickly or does it linger.
If it dissipates quickly your dealing with burning water or coolant, no question about it.
Where your leaking it is the question.
See if these are of any help.

Mazda 3: White Exhaust Smoke Diagnosis

https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/incredible-amounts-of-white-smoke-from-exhaust.192766/
https://www.thedrive.com/maintenance-repair/37516/white-smoke-from-exhaust-on-startup

[Richard Kirshy]

Those look like foundry flaws nothing that you should be worried about.

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