Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
BTW ECM and safety module fuses are either behind the passenger side dash storage drawer or under the driver’s side dash behind the storage drawer if equipped or the lower panel if not.
Not to be simplistic, but did you take the rotor off? If so check the continuity of the transfer circuit and if it can be put on backwards. Also, check the distributor cap for smashed or scorched contact posts,and no plug/dist wires have separated inside the insulation. If that is all good, check all ground straps and for loose screws in the distributor on the electronics and they are not worn to much or damaged. If nothing found during that, I would check for unplugged Engine monitoring sensors,if any don’t report properly it disconnects the ignition system and all of their wires run through the harness removed to access that coolant T you worked on. I don’t remember if that has a deadman rollover switch, but if so it might need reset.
I hope it helps, and good luck, if it doesn’t reply and I will try to get back.I can’t say specific information on this car, but check your fan relays, and ensure climate control isn’t on. The heat exchange for it is normally directly in front of the radiator and causes the fans to run when not moving. Also check the temp of coolant and trans oil with a 2nd method like scan tool and thermometer, trans oil cooler is built into the radiator and if the temp sensors for it or the block jacket, or gage read wrong you will chase your tail forever. the nipples being broken off, I suggest a radiator shop. If not an option find out if screwed in or sweated in. screwed you need a nipple wrench any hardware store should have. If sweated in, time for specialized skills and fire control, because it takes a torch and solder & flux to do right. Otherwise, buy a tap and threaded nipples in same pitch size that’s slightly over what broke off, and go slow with lots of lube, backing out the tap every 1/4ish inch. Sorry I can’t be more specific, but I like my Dodges slightly more experienced. Good Luck.
I’m a 2 time loser out of 2 for a similar issue in Honda’s from this model run. The first was a bad transmission control computer, and the second was a bad neutral safety/gear indicator sensor combined with a torque converter lock up solenoid being intermediately broken.
I just watched the video and wanted to do 3 things. I will start with welcome back and sorry about your vacation passing away, my condolences. The second and third are standard “do this to win at life”information, like the others you’re probably annoyed with by now. I’ll try and be susinct, to see an approximate outcome of polishing a surface, wipe on a wet coating of acetone. The appearance of the paint while wet will indicate the need for additional efforts to get a desirable finish. The third pearl of survival, before you start your polishing regimen, apply a good round of preliminary surface preparation using a good chrome polish. It reduces risk of accidental burn-through by reducing required sanding area, having a more refined, but comparable grit rating as very fine paper, but without the need to have flawless technique. I was introduced to the method when I grabbed the wrong bottle of polish while working in a restoration shop. I finished the prep before realizing the FUBAR, then suffered instant onset of mental flatulence, whilst searching through MSDS forms and databases in a panic, certain I ruined the 40 yr old original paint. Eventually informed of how chrome polish, unlike other metal polishes, lacks the harsh chemical catalysts that could have blistered the paint.
Sorry, I wasn’t clear on that post. I was talking about the little screen on the servo that gets clogged if the oil isn’t changed at proper times and gets burnt. I have 1 guy that has brought me his car 5 or so times because it’s in limp mode with the code to replace the v-tec module, but I just end up needing to change the oil and clean off the screen to get it working perfectly.
May want to make sure that all of the ground wires are intact and connected securely. If they are then check the ignition switch.
I have finally found the issue. Thanks guys, but after talking a technician into some diagnostic time for yard work, we were still at a loss after 2hr. We both made the mistake of not ruling out everything and then accidentally dropped a ICM on the block when it rattled free to have it fire right away. Turns out not 1 of the 7 had a case ground except for the heatsink. Thanks for the help
Sadly only way is to either find the test for each one of the sensors, or to have it hooked up to a full service computer. I would start with the air, water and any other temperature sensor that adjusts the air/ fuel ratio then move to the mass air and other more costly, less overlooked pick-ups, being as there is no trip to the check engine light.
I’m on my 5th Napa ignition control unit and none gave any spark at all. The original ICM still works perfect until it warms up and then loses all spark. Is it even possible to get that many bad units when everything tests good without any wire issues, and the original unit still simi-functioning? I have checked and rechecked everything but can’t get a new unit to work at all.
Thanks for the info jonsey1886 and everybody, but I surrender and am going back to what I love. I kept the trans to hopefully learn from it, but the rest of the car I repaid a kindness. A older lady that has let me repair her 99 Accord for many moons now, she would leave a heavy tip, if she felt I didn’t charge enough, and she kept me above water through cancer treatments. Long story short, the motor finally threw a rod and she was in a rough patch and couldn’t afford a new car, but after I went over the car it had a rebuilt trans and needed everything else. I had to tell her to let it go. After some looking and budget reforms I still couldn’t afford the trans, but the rest had a refresh 6 months before the trans failed, and that was all the 99 had. So I swapped the 2 driver side doors, and the trans. After making jokes about being the only mechanic without a running car, I handed over the title, but she insists on paying for it, so has been dropping off cake and some cash occasionally. I now have my 76 fury to tinker with, if I can just get the non-manufactured, low cost parts (ICM, intake, EGR controller, ballast resistors, etc…) to wake it up after a 15 year sleep. Now we are both happier and I’m closer to my comfort zone. It’s no 68, but it will do for now, and I’m happy to see the Honda now. 😉
My first check would be to make certain that all sensors are being reported, and then look for a boost leak, exhaust leak or even bad pipe routes. If that all checks out may want to have the ECM re-flashed to factory spec to prevent conflicting sensor inputs to the ECM. It also could be as simple as some bugged lines of code in the ECM from the tech making adjustments and not knowing about aftermarket flashing done to the ECM.
Thanks it turned out to be a problem with both a pickup and packing peanuts. Seems the kids in the area were bored with sugar. Luckily I found a neighbor that noticed me working on it and knew who I should ask about it. Now I just have to go through everything again looking for an unexpected fuel supplement.