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  • in reply to: Silverado w/5.3 burning oil at startup #454077
    TasogareTasogare
    Participant

      By startup, I assume you mean before the engine comes up to temperature.

      First thing that came to mind was the valve seals like you said. If the engine did overheat, that could contribute to that, or it could have warped the head.

      A bottom-end problem could be an issue as well. I’d see if I could get my hands on a boroscope (sp?) and look at the rings, cylinder walls, etc. I’d take a good look once you pull the head as well.

      in reply to: Favorite vehicle make #445115
      TasogareTasogare
      Participant

        Mitsubishi.

        Toyota is a close second – but only because of the Supra (and sometimes the Celica).

        in reply to: Vote for ETCG! #456953
        TasogareTasogare
        Participant

          I’m rounding up as much support as I can – even from non car-junkies. Hopefully more people from other car-circles will chip in too!

          I’m pulling for you man! T)

          in reply to: Scotty Kilmer, mechanic or shill? #453761
          TasogareTasogare
          Participant

            I’m subscribed to Scotty Kilmer – and I have to say his videos are quite informative.

            What I find that people forget is that – while both Eric and Scotty’s videos are informative – they’re not catch-alls. With tens of makes over scores of models over decades of years and untold number of conditions, there’s no way a visualized repair would exactly fit everybody. Those that usually complain are those that take thier knowledge as gospel, or those that already had a shaky hand on the situation taking thier advice and running with it.

            With thier advice comes a measure of your own expertise and understanding – as well as a fair bit of research on your part. In one specific case, one of Scotty’s videos had him changing a crank angle sensor that was on top of the engine. Easy I bet – but in my Mitsubishi, its behind the timing cover and crank pulley. You have to take both of those off, and it makes the job 10 times more difficult. Sure, I can gripe and say ‘you made it look easy’, but that’s not my car. In the end, common sense rules the day.

            in reply to: FATR 32 #445076
            TasogareTasogare
            Participant

              I miss the old ErictheCarGuy’.

              Seriously? Are you kidding me? You just keep doing what you’re doing. Stay true to yourself, and those that understand you will stay true to you. It’s not you who should change to keep friends – it’s your friends who will understand your changes and accept them.

              People that constantly wiggle about and can’t give an honest answer are called politicians. Those that don’t understand and gripe are called (can’t say as there are kids reading). Don’t become one of those, please….

              PS: That car with the insane negative camber made my jaw hit the floor.

              in reply to: What was your first ride? #457673
              TasogareTasogare
              Participant

                1992 Honda Accord LX.

                Nice car – ran very strong even at 150k miles. Eventually got rid of it because it was going to cost way too much to fix it up the way I wanted to. The previous owner(s) had it messed up pretty good. I’ll remember it though – took me through college!

                in reply to: How much would a paint job cost on a car or truck? #447094
                TasogareTasogare
                Participant

                  It depends on what you want, where you go and the size of the vehicle.

                  A quick and dirty Maaco paint job could run you as low as $200. Of course, this ignores everything like the engine bay, inside the door jambs and the little nooks and crannies. They don’t do much prep-work either, so many of those door dings will still be there. This is mostly for those that want to slap on a new coat before selling it or trading it in – or the paint is already pretty good, but you want to touch it up or have the clear coat redone.

                  If you’re looking for a quality job, expect to pay at least $1000 – and that’s bottom end for something reputable. This only increases for specialty colors, additives (like flake or speckle), body work (filling in cracks, dings and scrapes), changing the original color, special graphics, or multiple layers of clear. Most reputable places will go upwards of $3000 for a good, quality paint job.

                  in reply to: Electrical contact recommendations. #444335
                  TasogareTasogare
                  Participant

                    Seems plausible. I may have to start making this a part of my routine. Thanks for the tips. ^^

                    Wait….cats? o.O

                    in reply to: NA or Turbo #449821
                    TasogareTasogare
                    Participant

                      I’ve seen way too many people blow their engines apart with a turbo than anything else. XD Turbos are good for track use or extending power to a low-displacement engine – but nothing beats the sound of a good N/A intake, some headers and a good exhaust. It’s pure heaven. Keep it in tune and you’re sitting pretty.

                      in reply to: NA or Turbo #433663
                      TasogareTasogare
                      Participant

                        I’ve seen way too many people blow their engines apart with a turbo than anything else. XD Turbos are good for track use or extending power to a low-displacement engine – but nothing beats the sound of a good N/A intake, some headers and a good exhaust. It’s pure heaven. Keep it in tune and you’re sitting pretty.

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