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Check the throttle cable. If its too tight, it will keep the throttle plate open enough to suck in unwanted air, causing the exact things you’re describing. I adjusted my throttle cable the other day because it was too loose, but I over tightened and experienced everything you just mentioned. Had to go back and play around with the tension. Give it a shot
Fuel filter may be clogged/dirty. But might also be a vacuum leak. How are you certain it is misfiring 5-15seconds each time? An engine that sounds like its bogging, doesn’t necessarily mean misfiring. It could be a result of running lean from intaking more air than the computer compensates for, resulting in a lean running engine.
Might have a starter issue. It could be something else as well, we need more background info or things you’ve encountered regarding this issue and/or while diagnosing it.
Ball Joints! Check for upper/lower ball joints, look at the boot condition, for any play. Lift the front end, place on jack stands, grab the wheel at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, and tug at the wheel to feel for play. Also place a long pry bar under the wheel and pull up to see if theres play at the ball joints. Hope that helps.
Might just be the window motor. I’ve experienced this issue, master switch doesnt work, local switch doesnt work. I didnt try to check the modules or voltage when activated, I just took the panel off and discovered the motor cable was choked and frayed. There laid the problem!
It would be crazy to hear that you replaced an entire engine and managed to put the coolant into the wrong place lol. If you put coolant directly into the radiator, I cant imagine it would make its way out of the mating surface between the engine and trans. Just no way that can happen. My 05 Accord occasionally leaks some coolant, from the upper hose that goes under the air intake hose. Thats, to the best of my knowledge, the only way to get coolant to make its way to the area you just described. Get back with some pics or a link to a youtube vid.
I think you might just want to purchase the same gauge size electrical cable and cut off some insulation to your desired length and make yourself the proper connection.
Go over the connections, both to the alternator and to the battery. A good alternator does not mean you’re in the clear, nor does a good battery. Both things need to be in good condition, proper and secure connections to be able to work as intended. I’ve had a loose battery cable cause the car to turn off momentarily when hitting bumps on the road, so don’t underestimate the importance of secured connections. Good luck
Hi Lisa, You have a lot of questions and I think that I can help by narrowing it down to this. Yes, the coolant system and A/C system use different fluids, not to mention the A/C system has a secondary gas system which helps circulate the freon. The purpose of the coolant is to maintain the engine temperature at manufacturer spec. Now, during typical services, no one looks to see if an A/C system is leaking, why you may ask. Well because in order to accurately tell that it is leaking, they would need to use fancy equipment to measure the freon/gas levels in the A/C system OR insert a UV light activated detection liquid to the A/C system to see where the leak is happening IF any leak is even occurring. So thats just not something mechanics normally go out of their way to do, thats a service all on its own. To sum all of this up, if you suspect foul play, do not go back to this service station. Have the A/C system check by a shop that has the proper equipment to extract and refill the system. I think it would be fair to give the benefit of the doubt first before assuming anything. Also, the cabin air filter would not hinder cold air from being blown, it would affect air quality and even have a distinct bad odor when you turn on the cold/hot air. Hope this can point you in a better direction.
Honda power steering ONLY
Honda Auto Trans Fluid ONLYThe rest doesnt matter as it gets a lot more simpler with regards to sensors, etc. Typically at those lube shops, they dont fill up the trans or power steering anyway, so it wouldn’t matter if you go there for an oil change and they top of the fluids.
Hey everyone, so I had this same issue the past year or so. I have an 05’ Honda Accord Ex 4cyl Auto. Back when a heating system issue occurred, I was told that the heater control valve plate, located at the firewall, rusted from the swivel mechanism and potentially got lodged in the fins of the heater core. After 2-3 reverse flushes it appeared that there was no extraction of that broken piece from within the heater core. So the heater control valve was replaced, along with the water pump, as that was initially what we believed the problem was, and the thermostat was replaced as well. For more background, I replaced my water pump 5 days ago, this time sue to a wobbly pulley, new coolant, did the whole air bleeding process, so no issues there. Fast forward to yesterday, its cold weather season again and I wasnt going to deal with this lack of heat anymore. Finally went to another guy to get this flush done correctly… A 2008 Honda Pilot pulls out of his garage and he directs me to pull into the garage, I quickly explain that I have heat when revving up the engine or driving at highway speeds, but not at idle. I assure him the temp guage stays at normal temp all the time, coolant levels proper, and water pump recently done. So he asks me to pop the hood in order to observe the heater control valve movement when switch from HOT to COLD and back a few times. Then he says “Wait a sec, let me tighten this valve, it looks loose”… and in that instant, the car blew out HOT air without revving it. I was amazed and annoyed at how simple that was, how easily overlooked it went, but also how convinced I was I needed a flush or new heater core when the problem lay with the looseness of the heater control valve. Turns out that the Pilot that left just before me had the exact same issue, go figure! Hope this helps someone experiencing this issue with their Honda.